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OT - Table Saws

SkerInCo

Graduate Assistant
Apr 26, 2004
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I've been taking up woodworking recently and would like a table saw for my shop. Don't have the budget for a $3k cabinet saw so I've been researching some hybrids and higher end jobsite saws. Anyone out there have a good experience with something for under $1k?
 
Don't spend a ton on your first table saw. I'd check out the Bosch first and then the Dewalt, both in the neighborhood of $500
 
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I've been taking up woodworking recently and would like a table saw for my shop. Don't have the budget for a $3k cabinet saw so I've been researching some hybrids and higher end jobsite saws. Anyone out there have a good experience with something for under $1k?
Rigid makes a pretty nice one for the price. I've had lot of jobsite type table saws: makita, dewalt, Bosch, craftsman, rigid and if I had to pick one out of the bunch it's the rigid. 2nd would be the Bosch.
 
I'm going to 2nd the Bosch and Dewalt. If non- mobile Rigid has been making some pretty good ones as well.

I've got a mobile rigid and its really nice, definitely better than the dewalt I used to have. The only problem I have with it is that the shaft isn't long enough to use a dado blade, but other than that its the closest to a shop saw of the ones I've used.
 
I've got a mobile rigid and its really nice, definitely better than the dewalt I used to have. The only problem I have with it is that the shaft isn't long enough to use a dado blade, but other than that its the closest to a shop saw of the ones I've used.

I’ve also been looking at “jobsite” table saw as well and that seems to be the theme that most are not compatible with dado blades. Not sure if you or anyone else has heard of box blades, but I think they would be a good compromise. Blades cut either 1/4” or 3/8” depending on the blade orientation.
Here is a link https://www.rockler.com/freud-box-j...MIy7394rDo6QIVycDACh0qoQBWEAQYASABEgJpZ_D_BwE
 
Lots of very good brands out there. Look around, you can go to a Pawn shop and find great deals. Really the key I think to a good table saw is the fence. Nothing is more irritating than a lousy fence that does not slide properly. Buy a $400-$500 saw and invest $300-400. in a fence a you'll be damned glad you did. Enjoy. I did cabinetmaking for a living for 18 years and a table saw is a great tool. Watch your fingers!!!!
 

Just a couple of things to consider:

Its only a 8 1/4" saw so it has less capacity.
They nuisance trip arc-fault breakers constantly. Don't know why it is, but Dewalt saws in general have more issues with that than others. I ended up buying a Hitachi 12" sliding miter saw because my dewalt is practically useless on new construction jobs. My Rigid has a soft-start and I think thats why it doesn't have the same problem as the Dewalt or Bosch I used to have.
 
If you've got room for one that is stationary, Lowe's sells a Delta that runs around 5-600 depending on store. I have had it for 4 years. Love it.
 
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I’ve also been looking at “jobsite” table saw as well and that seems to be the theme that most are not compatible with dado blades. Not sure if you or anyone else has heard of box blades, but I think they would be a good compromise. Blades cut either 1/4” or 3/8” depending on the blade orientation.
Here is a link https://www.rockler.com/freud-box-j...MIy7394rDo6QIVycDACh0qoQBWEAQYASABEgJpZ_D_BwE

I just ordered one. Thanks, I'll let you know how it works, I just wish I would've known about these last week when I was building cabinet doors.
 
Several years ago I decided to finally break down and buy a table saw. Ordered a Delta at Lowes, planned to pick it up Friday and work the weekend on some things. They sold it before I got there so they gave me a Bosch to use over the weekend. I was torn between the Bosch and Delta initially. I really liked the Bosch and ended up with the Delta because of the table mainly. My Delta is 13 amps and that can make a difference in power.

Things I would look for:
A good fence as noted above. The Delta is good and pretty accurate
Low RPM's and 15 amp motors. Some saws run a gazillion RPM's to get enough power.
Do you need to move it around? I have to move mine off to the side and the three wheels, one that lifts works great for me. Do you want to fold the saw up all the time, some of those are a pain but great if you are taking it places or moving around.
I also tried all of the saws with the miter gauge/square and some are just brutally terrible.
 
Just a couple of things to consider:

Its only a 8 1/4" saw so it has less capacity.
They nuisance trip arc-fault breakers constantly. Don't know why it is, but Dewalt saws in general have more issues with that than others. I ended up buying a Hitachi 12" sliding miter saw because my dewalt is practically useless on new construction jobs. My Rigid has a soft-start and I think thats why it doesn't have the same problem as the Dewalt or Bosch I used to have.

Good points. One of the few things that drew me to this saw is it’s 24.5” ripping capacity, which allows me to rip full 4’x8’ sheet goods. It has a 15 amp motor, so hopefully it can handle 3/4” material with relative ease. It appears the fence has the measurements built in and the cost is pretty hard to beat. Also, I am more of a hobby carpenter, so that affects some of my decision making.
 
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Good points. One of the few things that drew me to this saw is it’s 24.5” ripping capacity, which allows me to rip full 4’x8’ sheet goods. It has a 15 amp motor, so hopefully it can handle 3/4” material with relative ease. It appears the fence has the measurements built in and the cost is pretty hard to beat. Also, I am more of a hobby carpenter, so that affects some of my decision making.

Don't put a lot of stock in motor amps. I know it seems like the more the better but it has more to do with how the power is transferred.

I like the way the Dewalt fence works with gears, but its kind of a double edged sword. It makes it easier to get close to exact but if you want precision for things like building cabinets its harder to adjust the outfeed side. Better off just having a slide and measuring both edges to the blade. If you're planning on cutting a lot of plywood, go with a 10" saw. Just from my experience, when you have a 8 1/4" saw and want to use a plywood blade its really slow going, which means you get burn marks and the material tends to float. You pretty much have to use a combination blade which means chipping on cross cuts.
 
I've remodeled our entire house over 10 years using a cheap Bosch jobsite saw. Definitely wouldn't be the thing for fine woodworking. I never use it without careful consideration of just how dangerous the damn thing is. I came within a fine hair of losing a large portion of my left pointer finger a few years ago cutting a too small board that kicked back. I felt the impact on the tip of my finger and it seemed like eternity as I held it up thinking "it's gone". Luckily it was minimal damage considering! I think my finger grazed the side of the blade and not the edge thank god.
 
I’ve also been looking at “jobsite” table saw as well and that seems to be the theme that most are not compatible with dado blades. Not sure if you or anyone else has heard of box blades, but I think they would be a good compromise. Blades cut either 1/4” or 3/8” depending on the blade orientation.
Here is a link https://www.rockler.com/freud-box-j...MIy7394rDo6QIVycDACh0qoQBWEAQYASABEgJpZ_D_BwE
Glad this thread was bumped. Can't say that I recommend these blades over just using a router table with a plowing bit. Material seems to float both directions more than I would have expected so its no easier to get a straight cut than with a router. Probably not worth the investment.
 
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