OT: Yellowstone and Grand Teton NP

[newAD]

Since the knowledge on this board never ceases to amaze me. Considering possibly taking the kids to one or both of these parks I’ve the summer, probably July.

I suspect it’s probably late to be looking to go the and I’m sure it will be expensive. Looking to do some hiking, sightseeing, and one kid will want to fish.

We don’t have a camper, so looking for lodging advice, and any other advice anyone can give. Probably would be there about 5 days.
Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[DerHusker]

AD, Below is a letter I sent to some friends of ours that were wanting to visit YNP and the Tetons. It will cover most of what you asked. If you haven't already made reservations yet, you should start your research ASAP and start calling because things do fill up fast. The most important tip I can you give is that YNP and Grand Tetons are BIG places that take time to get around in. The closer you can stay to where you want to visit the better.

The Yellowstone area is our favorite place to vacation and I’d treat it as one of the great vacations of your life. (You’ll understand why after you get there) You also need to know that it’s big. It’s much too big to see everything in just a few days unless you can find lodging in the park. (We usually try to spend a minimum of 6 to 7 days in the area) That’s why I asked what your main objectives are and how long you have so I can get you in the right spot(s). (You need to plan your time accordingly)

Here’s a link to the Yellowstone “Plan your Visit” site which you should explore before going.

http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/index.htm

If you can’t find lodging in the park then the west, north and north east entrances have small towns just outside the gates where you can find rooms to stay. The east entrance has some lodges but most aren’t just outside the gates and can take well over an hour just to get inside the areas of the park where most want to visit. (And that's without traffic which they do have) Just outside the west entrance is West Yellowstone and there are plenty of hotels there. You should start making reservations now if you want to pick where you stay instead of just finding someplace to stay. It’s a great place if geysers are your main point of interest. If wildlife is your main point of interest then Cooke City is a great choice because you go through Lamar Valley to get to everything else. This is where we saw our first wolves, a big grizzly, antelope and tons of bison. Gardiner is just outside the North and is another good spot for wildlife and is closer to the geysers than Cooke City. If museums are of interest then stay in Cody outside the east entrance.

I’m of the opinion that it takes a bare minimum of three days to see Yellowstone and not be rushed. If you have three days you can devote one day to geysers, one day to viewing the waterfalls and one day to seeing wildlife. You can see wildlife as you go from geyser to geyser and waterfall to waterfall but most of the harder to find animals take a little luck or a little more effort. If you had seven full days you could really get a feel for the area. (Including Cody, Cooke City, Grand Tetons & Jackson Hole)

Things you should have to make your trip more enjoyable:

1. The best set of binoculars you can afford. The better they are the better your chances of seeing certain wildlife. Many of you viewing opportunities are from a good distance away. (The wolves we saw were approx. 500 yards away)

2. A good camera, tripod and the best telephoto lens you can afford. (Remember, Many of you viewing opportunities are from a good distance away)

3. A good spotting scope. The better it is the better your chances of seeing certain wildlife.

Must See Things in Yellowstone:

1. Geysers:

a. Old Faithful Geyser / Basin and Lodge

b. Lower Geyser Basin / Firehole Lake Dr. (Great Fountain Geyser, White Dome Geyser)

c. Midway Geyser Basin. (Turquoise Geyser, Opal Geyser)

d. Mammoth Hot Springs (Historical) (The Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces doesn’t have much water in them anymore so they aren’t as nice as they once were)


2. Waterfalls:

a. Canyon Village area South Rim Drive.

i. Upper Falls View.

ii. Artist Point. (View of Lower Falls)

iii. Uncle tom’s Trail to the bottom of Lower Falls. Going down isn't so bad but coming up is quite a bit harder. (Just remember there is a trail down and then there are 328 stairs and you’re at around 7000 foot elev.)

b. Canyon Village area North Rim Drive.

i. Upper Falls View.

ii. Trail down to top of Lower Falls view platform. (No steps on this trail but steep in places)

iii. Lookout Point & Grand View.

iv. Inspiration Point

c. Canyon Village area Brink of Upper Falls. (In between South Rim and North Rim Drives)

d. Tower Falls (Between Canyon Village and almost to Tower Roosevelt ) (Also have a great gift shop here) (Nothing of any real interest in Tower Roosevelt unless you’re looking for historical)

e. Gibbon Falls. (In between Norris Basin and Mammoth Village)

f. Lewis Falls. (In between south entrance and West Thumb) (Nothing of any real interest in West Thumb or Grants Village)

3. Wildlife:

a. Lamar Valley. (In between Tower Roosevelt and Cooke City) (Best chance at seeing wolves. Also bear, antelope & bison)

b. Hayden Valley. (In between Lake Village and Canyon Village) (We’ve seen huge herds of Bison every time we’ve gone through this area) (We also saw a momma bear and two cubs last time we were in this area)

c. Mount Washburn. (We’ve seen Big Horn Sheep every time we’ve gone through this area)

d. Madison River Valley. (We’ve seen Elk every time we’ve gone through this area)

4. Historical / Other Things:

a. Mammoth Village / Lodge. (Historical and we usually see Elk there)

b. Lake Village / Lake Lodge. (Historical)

c. Fishing Bridge. (You’ll go over this on your way to Cody and you could possibly see otters.)

d. North Entrance Roosevelt Arch (Historical and there is usually Big Horn and Mountain Goat in between Mammoth Hot Spring and the north entrance)

Other things to see (in the park) if you have time:

1. Norris Geyser Basin.

2. Upper Geyser Basin.

3. Biscuit Basin.

4. Black Sand Basin.

5. Monument Geyser Basin.

Things to see outside the park if you have time:

1. Grand Tetons National Park is a must see.

a. Jackson Lake Lodge. You won’t regret a visit to the lobby and patio here as the view and furnishings are spectacular. Also eating here is a real treat. (The Mural Room is spectacular upscale dining. The Pioneer Grill is a 1950's style diner with great food. We also usually do a drink and some appetizers in the Blue Heron Lounge) You can stay in the lodge rooms but they are, how should I say this, well lodge/cabin like. They are nice but as of the last time we stayed there, they were a little dated. Having said this I'd still recommend staying here for at least a day or two because it cuts down on your driving time if you stay down in Jackson.

b. Snake River.

i. Take a raft trip if you have time. (We used Barker-Ewing Rafting. You won’t regret it)

ii. Oxbow Bend Turnout. (Great for pictures in the morning)

iii. Cattleman’s Bridge Site (We saw Osprey, Eagles and a family of Otters here)

c. Jackson Lake.

d. Jenny Lake. One of the more beautiful lakes you’ll ever see. (Take the shuttle / ferry from the ranger station over to the Cascade Canyon Trailhead)

e. Moose Wilson road. (We’ve seen Moose along here a few times)

f. Gros Ventre Road / Mormon Row / Antelope Flats Road (Drive out here to see Bison and possibly Moose. Also you can pull off of Antelope Flats Road (just east of where it intersects with Mormon Row) and take a picture of the barn from the movie set of Shane)

g. Pacific Creek Road out towards Emma Matilda Lake. (We’ve seen Grizzly and Black Bear out here)

2. Town of Jackson Hole. Link: http://www.jacksonholenet.com If staying here we can recommend the Rustic Lodge (fairly expensive) or the Cowboy Village Resort Cabins (a little more reasonable)

a. Jackson Town Square. (Each corner has an Elk Antler Arch)

b. If art galleries are of interest, then there are dozens of them surrounding the Town Square.

c. Directly across the Town Square is the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. (All the bar-stools are saddles)

d. Elk Reserve Visitor Center.

e. Wildlife Art Museum.

f. Wort Hotel and the Silver Dollar Bar & Grill. (The entire bar is inlayed with Silver Dollars)

g. Gun Barrel Restaurant.

h. Chuck Wagon (Cowboy) Dinner Show

3. Town of Cody and all its museums. (You won’t regret it)

Hope this helps.

 

[BigRedBugeaters]

Great list. Did family trip there about 10 years ago would go back in a heartbeat. Beautiful. It’s hard to leave

 

[huskerfan66]

AD, Below is a letter I sent to some friends of ours that were wanting to visit YNP and the Tetons. It will cover most of what you asked. If you haven't already made reservations yet, you should start your research ASAP and start calling because things do fill up fast. The most important tip I can you give is that YNP and Grand Tetons are BIG places that take time to get around in. The closer you can stay to where you want to visit the better.

The Yellowstone area is our favorite place to vacation and I’d it treat as one of the great vacations of your life. (You’ll understand why after you get there) You also need to know that it’s big. It’s much too big to see everything in just a few days unless you can find lodging in the park. (We usually try to spend a minimum of 6 to 7 days in the area) That’s why I asked what your main objectives are and how long you have so I can get you in the right spot(s). (You need to plan your time accordingly)

Here’s a link to the Yellowstone “Plan your Visit” site which you should explore before going.

http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/index.htm

If you can’t find lodging in the park then the west, north and north east entrances have small towns just outside the gates where you can find rooms to stay. The east entrance has some lodges but most aren’t just outside the gates and can take well over an hour just to get inside the areas of the park where most want to visit. (And that's without traffic which they do have) Just outside the west entrance is West Yellowstone and there are plenty of hotels there. You should start making reservations now if you want to pick where you stay instead of just finding someplace to stay. It’s a great place if geysers are your main point of interest. If wildlife is your main point of interest then Cooke City is a great choice because you go through Lamar Valley to get to everything else. This is where we saw our first wolves, a big grizzly, antelope and tons of bison. Gardiner is just outside the North and is another good spot for wildlife and is closer to the geysers than Cooke City. If museums are of interest then stay in Cody outside the east entrance.

I’m of the opinion that it takes a bare minimum of three days to see Yellowstone and not be rushed. If you have three days you can devote one day to geysers, one day to viewing the waterfalls and one day to seeing wildlife. You can see wildlife as you go from geyser to geyser and waterfall to waterfall but most of the harder to find animals take a little luck or a little more effort. If you had seven full days you could really get a feel for the area. (Including Cody, Cooke City, Grand Tetons & Jackson Hole)

Things you should have to make your trip more enjoyable:

1. The best set of binoculars you can afford. The better they are the better your chances of seeing certain wildlife. Many of you viewing opportunities are from a good distance away. (The wolves we saw were approx. 500 yards away)

2. A good camera, tripod and the best telephoto lens you can afford. (Remember, Many of you viewing opportunities are from a good distance away)

3. A good spotting scope. The better it is the better your chances of seeing certain wildlife.

Must See Things in Yellowstone:

1. Geysers:

a. Old Faithful Geyser / Basin and Lodge

b. Lower Geyser Basin / Firehole Lake Dr. (Great Fountain Geyser, White Dome Geyser)

c. Midway Geyser Basin. (Turquoise Geyser, Opal Geyser)

d. Mammoth Hot Springs (Historical) (The Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces doesn’t have much water in them anymore so they aren’t as nice as they once were)


2. Waterfalls:

a. Canyon Village area South Rim Drive.

i. Upper Falls View.

ii. Artist Point. (View of Lower Falls)

iii. Uncle tom’s Trail to the bottom of Lower Falls. Going down ins't so bad but coming up is quites a bit harder. (Just remember there is a trail down and then there are 328 stairs and you’re at around 7000 foot elev.)

b. Canyon Village area North Rim Drive.

i. Upper Falls View.

ii. Trail down to top of Lower Falls view platform. (No steps on this trail but steep in places)

iii. Lookout Point & Grand View.

iv. Inspiration Point

c. Canyon Village area Brink of Upper Falls. (In between South Rim and North Rim Drives)

d. Tower Falls (Between Canyon Village and almost to Tower Roosevelt ) (Also have a great gift shop here) (Nothing of any real interest in Tower Roosevelt unless you’re looking for historical)

e. Gibbon Falls. (In between Norris Basin and Mammoth Village)

f. Lewis Falls. (In between south entrance and West Thumb) (Nothing of any real interest in West Thumb or Grants Village)

3. Wildlife:

a. Lamar Valley. (In between Tower Roosevelt and Cooke City) (Best chance at seeing wolves. Also bear, antelope & bison)

b. Hayden Valley. (In between Lake Village and Canyon Village) (We’ve seen huge herds of Bison every time we’ve gone through this area) (We also saw a momma bear and two cubs last time we were in this area)

c. Mount Washburn. (We’ve seen Big Horn Sheep every time we’ve gone through this area)

d. Madison River Valley. (We’ve seen Elk every time we’ve gone through this area)

4. Historical / Other Things:

a. Mammoth Village / Lodge. (Historical and we usually see Elk there)

b. Lake Village / Lake Lodge. (Historical)

c. Fishing Bridge. (You’ll go over this on your way to Cody and you could possibly see otters.)

d. North Entrance Roosevelt Arch (Historical and there is usually Big Horn and Mountain Goat in between Mammoth Hot Spring and the north entrance)

Other things to see (in the park) if you have time:

1. Norris Geyser Basin.

2. Upper Geyser Basin.

3. Biscuit Basin.

4. Black Sand Basin.

5. Monument Geyser Basin.

Things to see outside the park if you have time:

1. Grand Tetons National Park is a must see.

a. Jackson Lake Lodge. You won’t regret a visit to the lobby and patio here as the view and furnishings are spectacular. Also eating here is a real treat. (The Mural Room is spectacular upscale dining. The Pioneer Grill is a 1950's style diner with great food. We also usually do a drink and some appetizers in the Blue Heron Lounge) You can stay in the lodge rooms but they are, how should I say this, well lodge/cabin like. They are nice but as of the last time we stayed there, they were a little dated. Having said this I'd still recommend staying here for at least a day or two because it cuts down on your driving time if you stay down in Jackson.

b. Snake River.

i. Take a raft trip if you have time. (We used Barker-Ewing Rafting. You won’t regret it)

ii. Oxbow Bend Turnout. (Great for pictures in the morning)

iii. Cattleman’s Bridge Site (We saw Osprey, Eagles and a family of Otters here)

c. Jackson Lake.

d. Jenny Lake. One of the more beautiful lakes you’ll ever see. (Take the shuttle / ferry from the ranger station over to the Cascade Canyon Trailhead)

e. Moose Wilson road. (We’ve seen Moose along here a few times)

f. Gros Ventre Road / Mormon Row / Antelope Flats Road (Drive out here to see Bison and possibly Moose. Also you can pull off of Antelope Flats Road (just east of where it intersects with Mormon Row) and take a picture of the barn from the movie set of Shane)

g. Pacific Creek Road out towards Emma Matilda Lake. (We’ve seen Grizzly and Black Bear out here)

2. Town of Jackson Hole. Link: http://www.jacksonholenet.com If staying here we can recommend the Rustic Lodge (fairly expensive) or the Cowboy Village Resort Cabins (a little more reasonable)

a. Jackson Town Square. (Each corner has an Elk Antler Arch)

b. If art galleries are of interest, then there are dozens of them surrounding the Town Square.

c. Directly across the Town Square is the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. (All the bar-stools are saddles)

d. Elk Reserve Visitor Center.

e. Wildlife Art Museum.

f. Wort Hotel and the Silver Dollar Bar & Grill. (The entire bar is inlayed with Silver Dollars)

g. Gun Barrel Restaurant.

h. Chuck Wagon (Cowboy) Dinner Show

3. Town of Cody and all its museums. (You won’t regret it)

Hope this helps.

Haven't been to either, but I totally agree about the urgency of booking lodging ASAP. Chances are it's too late. IF I remember correctly, they fill up a year in advance.

 

[ADV1]

That area is my favorite place in the country! Simply beautiful

 

[Cloud@Heart]

I thought I was going to type a bunch but Derhusker has covered it very well!

I would fish just outside the park... Pick a state and buy a three day permit for $50ish.... Then you don't have to use barbless hooks and a few other rules.

 

[SkerInCo]

If you go in July be prepared for A LOT of people. A LOT.

 

[Cloud@Heart]

If you go in July be prepared for A LOT of people. A LOT.

We only ever go in October and February..... Cooke City, Silver Gate, and Gardiner are decent places to stay right outside the park on the North/Northeast side of the park. I avoid West Yellowstone at all costs. I love Jenny Lake Lodge and Signal Mountain in Teton NP for places to stay in the south part of your adventure.

 

[BigO4WYO]

I would just echo what derhusker said... these places are massive! We completely underestimated their size and thought two days in Grand Teton would be enough, and Jenny Lake alone took an entire day. The food in Jackson, WY is incredible. Snake River Grill. Probably one of the better meals we've ever had in our lives. Lodging is tough and $$$.. bite the bullet and stay somewhere close to where you want to go. The last thing you want to do is have an hour round trip wherever you want to go... again, there's just not going to be enough time.

 

[DerHusker]

I posted my reply late last night and ran out of time before I needed to go to bed. I'll expand on what I wrote above by adding the following:

1. YNP is BIG. Yellowstone is bigger than two U.S. states. At 3,472 square miles—over 2.2 million acres—Yellowstone is larger than the states of Rhode Island and Delaware combined. (This does not include Grand Tetons National Park which adds another 310,000 acres / 480 sq. miles)

2. There are 5 park entrances and 466 miles of roads in the park.

3. YNP is our nations 1st national park and is thought to be the worlds 1st national park.

4. Although YNP is mostly in Wyoming it is also in Montana (3%) and Idaho. (1 %)

We've stayed just in West Yellowstone, Gardiner and Cooke City just outside the park. All 3 have there pros and cons. (See letter above for recommendations)

Do not try to stay in Jackson if YNP is your destination. The drive to the south entrance to YNP is approximately 2 hours and then another 40 to 45 minutes to West Thumb. Also you will have to go though the Grand Tetons entrance to get to the YNP entrance. That works out fine as a Grand Tetons pass will also get you into YNP as well as vice versa.

That's all I got for now.

Have a great time.

 

[grayhairedfreak]

DerHusker and others have posted great info. YNP and GTNP are both beautiful. I'll also echo that if you are going to Yellowstone in July you are hitting their absolutely busiest time and you'll need to bring a TON of patience. My wife and I went a couple years ago at the end of June. We waited 30 minutes to get a parking space at Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, walked down to the scenic view and had to battle through about 1,000 other people for our 30 seconds to take pix and get out of the way. That's not my kind of vacation. We wouldn't go that time of year again.

 

[Cloud@Heart]

It used to be that one entry fee was all that was required to enter both parks (YNP and Teton)...... I believe that is no longer the case and you get double charged. Because of that, and my proximity to Glacier National Park, along with the off chance that I stop at Mt. Rushmore on the way back to Mom's house, we pay $80 for a year long pass that gets you and your family into ALL national parks for a year. Decent deal for me and my family.

Devil's Tower is worth the stop for some friends of mine as a place to visit on the way out or going back, but some friends have not enjoyed it as much.

Spend the $8 and 2.4hours and soak up Custer's Battlefield.... Very well done! I usually don't get into such things, but I am glad that I stop every-time that I do.

 

[BeautifulDayintheNeighborhood]

Be wary of the super volcano

 

[tpmcg]

Couple suggestions -
If heights and steep grades don't bother you, and if you plan to travel north out of Sheridan, Wyoming, take US 14 from Dayton over the Bighorn Mountains. Then take US 14 Alt at the Burgess Junction down the backside to Lovell – the view was amazing, but it was hard not to keep my eyes on the road. I don't know what the drive to Greybull (US 14) is like, I just know the drive on US 14 Alt was crazy. Take it easy on the brakes and they better be in good shape!

Then out of Lovell, head up and around to Red Lodge (really neat town) and then you can do the Beartooth Pass/Highway. Spectacular views! It can be a little daunting, but it’s not US 14 Alt. You can get to Red Lodge outta Billings, MT (go by Little Bighorn, if you do), if you want to avoid the 'vertigo inducing' drive. That will lead you onto the northern route of Yellowstone and will take you into Gardiner out the north gate to the park and up the Paradise Valley and follow along the Yellowstone River – we just drove it, but lots of fishing and rafting/canoeing on the river. Its gorgeous.

 

[tpmcg]

Spend the $8 and 2.4hours and soak up Custer's Battlefield.... Very well done! I usually don't get into such things, but I am glad that I stop every-time that I do.

i agree. great recommendation. haven't ever had that much time to spend there, but what a pleasant surprise.

 

[dinglefritz]

Since the knowledge on this board never ceases to amaze me. Considering possibly taking the kids to one or both of these parks I’ve the summer, probably July.

I suspect it’s probably late to be looking to go the and I’m sure it will be expensive. Looking to do some hiking, sightseeing, and one kid will want to fish.

We don’t have a camper, so looking for lodging advice, and any other advice anyone can give. Probably would be there about 5 days.
Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.

I've been there probably at least 10 times. DerHusker covered it pretty well. What you might be able to do at this late date is find one night here and there in the park and down at Jackson Lake. Call the reservation centers and see what you can get. If not, Cody is not a bad place to base out of. It is probably an hour drive in to Yellowstone Lake in the summer. IF you can get a spot here and there IN the park, DO IT. We've done it where we've done a night at Lake Lodge, two at OldFaithful Inn, and a couple at Jackson Lake Lodge. I've tent camped in the part near Yellowstone Lake and that was fun. No showers at some of the cabins in Yellowstone and none in the tent campgrounds. Firehole River is the spot to dip the stinky parts. Jackson Lake Lodge viewing platform is probably my favorite place on earth. It overlooks the Willow Flats with moose browsing below you. Tetons looming over the lake. SPECTACULAR. Years ago we stayed in the cabins at the north end of Jackson Lake. Very reasonable pricing in the cabins. The food is great at all of the lodges BUT you MUST have reservations for the dining rooms. I highly recommend the dining rooms at the Old Faithful Inn, Y. Lake Lodge and Jackson lake Lodge. One hike I've taken scouts on is to Fairy Falls in the Old Faithful Area. Flat trail and a cool waterfall.

 

[goldencohusker]

I have vacationed in Yellowstone many times mostly in mid June which is still busy, but not like July. I haven't seen anything in the other posts that doesn't seem accurate to me.

Staying in the park makes the trip much more enjoyable simply due to convenience. As stated, the parks are very big so you want to spend at least several days, and trying to commute in/out from out-of-park lodging options is time consuming given the distance and slow driving speeds, and still not cheap. For prime summer months, you need to reserve in-park accomodations at least a year in advance. Probably your only option for in-park lodging at this point would potentially be calling on a frequent basis to inquire about any cancellations. If you camp, you may have more flexibility as the last time I checked the campgrounds allocated some first-come first serve spaces. You need to be in line early for check in to have a chance at those, and be prepared to drive a long ways for plan B if you don't get a spot.

Although it will be very crowded in July if you are willing to use your feet and venture off the beaten path a bit you lose 90%+ of the crowd. A good example is Lonestar Geyser which is near Old Faithful, and has a regular eruption schedule and goes higher than Old Faithful. Another example, is taking the Northrim Canyon hike to see the Grand Canyon and Falls. Hitting the most heavily visited locations early or late is another way to minimize the crowd situation.

I have fished for years in Yellowstone. There are many great steams and lakes to try. Yellowstone Lake has many beach options to fish from shore that are great for kids. However, fishing in the lake is not nearly as good as it used to be as nonnative Lake trout have decreased the numbers of the native Cutthroat which stay in the shallower water closer to shore. For flyfishing, the Firehole and Madison rivers are excellent

 

[1 nu rugby]

for Lodging Flagg Ranch or Headwaters Lodge at Flagg Ranch between the parks - you can check availability at https://www.xanterra.com/ for within the park. Also, check ahead for road construction the North loop of YNP was under construction last summer and likely still this season for at least part of it.
https://www.gtlc.com/lodges/headwaters-lodge-at-flagg-ranch

Hope you have a great trip!

 

[mkbrkloster]

Both places are spectacular, though differently so. Tetons are "holy crap, is that fake?" spectacular, Yellowstone is "am I on a different planet?" spectacular. As others have said, you may already be too late, lodging-wise, if you want to stay in the park, so get on it quick.

I have the luxury of being able to go to Yellowstone whenever I want, so I never go after Memorial Day or before Labor Day. If you have time flexibility, I'd avoid July like the plague. I give the same advice about Yellowstone as I do to Disney...just take the kids out of school and go in the off-season, which you could stretch to before mid-June or after the 3rd week in August. You're spending a lot of time and money to make the trip, avoiding the peak crowds will make all the difference in the world in your enjoyment of the trip.

As other said, it's big; embrace it and take your time. The must-see things are obviously Old Faithful (and the lodge), Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (Upper and Lower Falls, Brink of the Lower Falls hike), Grand Prismatic Spring (and other hot springs), and Yellowstone Lake. To and from these locations are several road-side waterfalls and features worth a stop, like the Boiling River.

What most don't do is to get off the roads and away from the parking lot, and take a hike to a stream, lake, springs, mountain top. By walking even a quarter mile, you'll lose 95% of the people. The Falcon Guide Hiking Yellowstone National Park is great to find destination hikes that fit your activity and effort level. Getting away from the roads and finding a hike along a stream is a great way to catch more fish, also.

Kids will be exhausted and miserable if you just take them from sight to sight. Take some breaks; have a picnic beside the Madison River, let them wade and play in a stream, go get ice cream every afternoon.

 

[VandallHuskerJulie]

i agree. great recommendation. haven't ever had that much time to spend there, but what a pleasant surprise.

I drive by the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Park every summer when I drive home to Omaha. As others have mentioned, it is a wonderful, altho very sobering experience. I highly recommend it.

https://www.nps.gov/libi/index.htm

 

[DerHusker]

Take some breaks; have a picnic beside the Madison River,

I highly recommend doing this!

 

[dinglefritz]

I highly recommend doing this!

Colter Bay Village is a great place to do that too. We let a group of boy scouts swim there and we grilled steaks at a picnic spot. The cafe there was a great place overlooking the marina. The cabins there were cheap and family friendly the one time we stayed there.

 

[SLOHusker]

Since the knowledge on this board never ceases to amaze me. Considering possibly taking the kids to one or both of these parks I’ve the summer, probably July.

I suspect it’s probably late to be looking to go the and I’m sure it will be expensive. Looking to do some hiking, sightseeing, and one kid will want to fish.

We don’t have a camper, so looking for lodging advice, and any other advice anyone can give. Probably would be there about 5 days.
Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.

Been to both parks twice in the past 10 years and going back this summer. There is enough to see and do to span multiple weeks so forget about doing it all. But do go to both parks.
I highly recommend staying in the parks if at all possible, otherwise you will spend a lot of valuable time driving. Distances are as mentioned considerable. Try to get out onto the trails where you will quickly see crowds disappear and the most beautiful sights await. The wildlife is abundant and easier to see than just about anywhere in the US, but early morning hours pay off if you want the best chances. Bring mosquito repellent for hikes near the lakes or the Beartooth Mountains. And Old Faithful Inn is a great stop even if you don't spend the night.

 

[dinglefritz]

Been to both parks twice in the past 10 years and going back this summer. There is enough to see and do to span multiple weeks so forget about doing it all. But do go to both parks.
I highly recommend staying in the parks if at all possible, otherwise you will spend a lot of valuable time driving. Distances are as mentioned considerable. Try to get out onto the trails where you will quickly see crowds disappear and the most beautiful sights await. The wildlife is abundant and easier to see than just about anywhere in the US, but early morning hours pay off if you want the best chances. Bring mosquito repellent for hikes near the lakes or the Beartooth Mountains. And Old Faithful Inn is a great stop even if you don't spend the night.

Ice cream in the Old Faithful Inn is a good idea. LOVE sitting up on the observation porch watching the geyser while having cocktails. Used to be able to do it at night. Now they don't light the geyser because some green nutjobs thought it was a bad idea I guess.

 

[newAD]

AD, Below is a letter I sent to some friends of ours that were wanting to visit YNP and the Tetons. It will cover most of what you asked. If you haven't already made reservations yet, you should start your research ASAP and start calling because things do fill up fast. The most important tip I can you give is that YNP and Grand Tetons are BIG places that take time to get around in. The closer you can stay to where you want to visit the better.

The Yellowstone area is our favorite place to vacation and I’d treat it as one of the great vacations of your life. (You’ll understand why after you get there) You also need to know that it’s big. It’s much too big to see everything in just a few days unless you can find lodging in the park. (We usually try to spend a minimum of 6 to 7 days in the area) That’s why I asked what your main objectives are and how long you have so I can get you in the right spot(s). (You need to plan your time accordingly)

Here’s a link to the Yellowstone “Plan your Visit” site which you should explore before going.

http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/index.htm

If you can’t find lodging in the park then the west, north and north east entrances have small towns just outside the gates where you can find rooms to stay. The east entrance has some lodges but most aren’t just outside the gates and can take well over an hour just to get inside the areas of the park where most want to visit. (And that's without traffic which they do have) Just outside the west entrance is West Yellowstone and there are plenty of hotels there. You should start making reservations now if you want to pick where you stay instead of just finding someplace to stay. It’s a great place if geysers are your main point of interest. If wildlife is your main point of interest then Cooke City is a great choice because you go through Lamar Valley to get to everything else. This is where we saw our first wolves, a big grizzly, antelope and tons of bison. Gardiner is just outside the North and is another good spot for wildlife and is closer to the geysers than Cooke City. If museums are of interest then stay in Cody outside the east entrance.

I’m of the opinion that it takes a bare minimum of three days to see Yellowstone and not be rushed. If you have three days you can devote one day to geysers, one day to viewing the waterfalls and one day to seeing wildlife. You can see wildlife as you go from geyser to geyser and waterfall to waterfall but most of the harder to find animals take a little luck or a little more effort. If you had seven full days you could really get a feel for the area. (Including Cody, Cooke City, Grand Tetons & Jackson Hole)

Things you should have to make your trip more enjoyable:

1. The best set of binoculars you can afford. The better they are the better your chances of seeing certain wildlife. Many of you viewing opportunities are from a good distance away. (The wolves we saw were approx. 500 yards away)

2. A good camera, tripod and the best telephoto lens you can afford. (Remember, Many of you viewing opportunities are from a good distance away)

3. A good spotting scope. The better it is the better your chances of seeing certain wildlife.

Must See Things in Yellowstone:

1. Geysers:

a. Old Faithful Geyser / Basin and Lodge

b. Lower Geyser Basin / Firehole Lake Dr. (Great Fountain Geyser, White Dome Geyser)

c. Midway Geyser Basin. (Turquoise Geyser, Opal Geyser)

d. Mammoth Hot Springs (Historical) (The Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces doesn’t have much water in them anymore so they aren’t as nice as they once were)


2. Waterfalls:

a. Canyon Village area South Rim Drive.

i. Upper Falls View.

ii. Artist Point. (View of Lower Falls)

iii. Uncle tom’s Trail to the bottom of Lower Falls. Going down isn't so bad but coming up is quite a bit harder. (Just remember there is a trail down and then there are 328 stairs and you’re at around 7000 foot elev.)

b. Canyon Village area North Rim Drive.

i. Upper Falls View.

ii. Trail down to top of Lower Falls view platform. (No steps on this trail but steep in places)

iii. Lookout Point & Grand View.

iv. Inspiration Point

c. Canyon Village area Brink of Upper Falls. (In between South Rim and North Rim Drives)

d. Tower Falls (Between Canyon Village and almost to Tower Roosevelt ) (Also have a great gift shop here) (Nothing of any real interest in Tower Roosevelt unless you’re looking for historical)

e. Gibbon Falls. (In between Norris Basin and Mammoth Village)

f. Lewis Falls. (In between south entrance and West Thumb) (Nothing of any real interest in West Thumb or Grants Village)

3. Wildlife:

a. Lamar Valley. (In between Tower Roosevelt and Cooke City) (Best chance at seeing wolves. Also bear, antelope & bison)

b. Hayden Valley. (In between Lake Village and Canyon Village) (We’ve seen huge herds of Bison every time we’ve gone through this area) (We also saw a momma bear and two cubs last time we were in this area)

c. Mount Washburn. (We’ve seen Big Horn Sheep every time we’ve gone through this area)

d. Madison River Valley. (We’ve seen Elk every time we’ve gone through this area)

4. Historical / Other Things:

a. Mammoth Village / Lodge. (Historical and we usually see Elk there)

b. Lake Village / Lake Lodge. (Historical)

c. Fishing Bridge. (You’ll go over this on your way to Cody and you could possibly see otters.)

d. North Entrance Roosevelt Arch (Historical and there is usually Big Horn and Mountain Goat in between Mammoth Hot Spring and the north entrance)

Other things to see (in the park) if you have time:

1. Norris Geyser Basin.

2. Upper Geyser Basin.

3. Biscuit Basin.

4. Black Sand Basin.

5. Monument Geyser Basin.

Things to see outside the park if you have time:

1. Grand Tetons National Park is a must see.

a. Jackson Lake Lodge. You won’t regret a visit to the lobby and patio here as the view and furnishings are spectacular. Also eating here is a real treat. (The Mural Room is spectacular upscale dining. The Pioneer Grill is a 1950's style diner with great food. We also usually do a drink and some appetizers in the Blue Heron Lounge) You can stay in the lodge rooms but they are, how should I say this, well lodge/cabin like. They are nice but as of the last time we stayed there, they were a little dated. Having said this I'd still recommend staying here for at least a day or two because it cuts down on your driving time if you stay down in Jackson.

b. Snake River.

i. Take a raft trip if you have time. (We used Barker-Ewing Rafting. You won’t regret it)

ii. Oxbow Bend Turnout. (Great for pictures in the morning)

iii. Cattleman’s Bridge Site (We saw Osprey, Eagles and a family of Otters here)

c. Jackson Lake.

d. Jenny Lake. One of the more beautiful lakes you’ll ever see. (Take the shuttle / ferry from the ranger station over to the Cascade Canyon Trailhead)

e. Moose Wilson road. (We’ve seen Moose along here a few times)

f. Gros Ventre Road / Mormon Row / Antelope Flats Road (Drive out here to see Bison and possibly Moose. Also you can pull off of Antelope Flats Road (just east of where it intersects with Mormon Row) and take a picture of the barn from the movie set of Shane)

g. Pacific Creek Road out towards Emma Matilda Lake. (We’ve seen Grizzly and Black Bear out here)

2. Town of Jackson Hole. Link: http://www.jacksonholenet.com If staying here we can recommend the Rustic Lodge (fairly expensive) or the Cowboy Village Resort Cabins (a little more reasonable)

a. Jackson Town Square. (Each corner has an Elk Antler Arch)

b. If art galleries are of interest, then there are dozens of them surrounding the Town Square.

c. Directly across the Town Square is the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. (All the bar-stools are saddles)

d. Elk Reserve Visitor Center.

e. Wildlife Art Museum.

f. Wort Hotel and the Silver Dollar Bar & Grill. (The entire bar is inlayed with Silver Dollars)

g. Gun Barrel Restaurant.

h. Chuck Wagon (Cowboy) Dinner Show

3. Town of Cody and all its museums. (You won’t regret it)

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the information!

 

[newAD]

We only ever go in October and February..... Cooke City, Silver Gate, and Gardiner are decent places to stay right outside the park on the North/Northeast side of the park. I avoid West Yellowstone at all costs. I love Jenny Lake Lodge and Signal Mountain in Teton NP for places to stay in the south part of your adventure.

Just curious why you avoid West Yellowstone? Too crowded?

 

[newAD]

Be wary of the super volcano

That’d be my luck. 640,000 years and it’d happen while I’m on top of it.

 

[newAD]

Thanks all for the input and responses. There’s lots to digest. Hopefully we can make it work.

 

[Nebraska Fan]

Since the knowledge on this board never ceases to amaze me. Considering possibly taking the kids to one or both of these parks I’ve the summer, probably July.

I suspect it’s probably late to be looking to go the and I’m sure it will be expensive. Looking to do some hiking, sightseeing, and one kid will want to fish.

We don’t have a camper, so looking for lodging advice, and any other advice anyone can give. Probably would be there about 5 days.
Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated.

How old are the kids and what type of fishing do you expect they will like? Fishing the streams/rivers with kids can make you a nervous wreck in short order.

 

[newAD]

How old are the kids and what type of fishing do you expect they will like? Fishing the streams/rivers with kids can make you a nervous wreck in short order.

The one who would want to fish the most will be 18 and he’s about 6’4” all muscle and no fat, so I’m not too worried about him. The youngest will be 13. My oldest will be 19 and he and I for sure will want to try the Sky Rim Trail hike of 19 miles.

 

[Nebraska Fan]

The one who would want to fish the most will be 18 and he’s about 6’4” all muscle and no fat, so I’m not too worried about him. The youngest will be 13. My oldest will be 19 and he and I for sure will want to try the Sky Rim Trail hike of 19 miles.

good ages for yellowstone

 

[Cloud@Heart]

And this :

Just curious why you avoid West Yellowstone? Too crowded?

Yes.... and tourist shops.... and we don't enjoy that side of Yellowstone as much... But that is just us (me) and you may find it to be pretty cool.

 

[Cloud@Heart]

 

[Jeremara]

Just curious why you avoid West Yellowstone? Too crowded?

And this :


Yes.... and tourist shops.... and we don't enjoy that side of Yellowstone as much... But that is just us (me) and you may find it to be pretty cool.

If you do hit West Yellowstone and want to enter the Park, you need to do it before 8:00am or you'll be in a line from hell.

 

[dinglefritz]

Thanks all for the input and responses. There’s lots to digest. Hopefully we can make it work.

Just checked yesterday and Colter Bay Cabins has cabins available in July. GTLC.com for direct bookings. I think Yellowstone is Xanterra. We had a great stay there with kids but that's been 20 years ago. It overlooks the marina where you can rent canoes, motor boats, kayaks etc. The office for float trips and trail rides is there too. One last tip, there's a grill at Jackson Lake Lodge where you can take your food outside and sit on the viewing platform overlooking Willow Flats and Jackson Lake. Very affordable and good sandwiches.

 

[muletruck]

I wouldn't stay in the same place for the duration of your visit due to the size of the park and the time it takes to go A to B. Recommend staying a few days in Cody and a few more in Jackson Hole. Do a rafting tour and catch a rodeo. The Beartooth Highway and Chief Joseph scenic routes are a good way to spend a day (plan this around a Cody stay).
Yellowstone Lake has decent fishing although I always had better fishing on the Snake river.
If travelling thru the park try to stay clear during busy times 10-4 since you will frequently find yourself stopped behind 80 cars because the first car sees a bear 1000 yards from the highway and feels the need to hold up traffic for 30 mins (referred to as Animal Jams). Also, there are always Buffalo on the road and they are HUGE.
The Canyon area is most beautiful area of the YP with the waterfalls and the Tetons (especially Jenny Lake) are also a a must see ( stay in Jackson for this portion of trip).
The Buffalo Bill Museum is worthwhile and can take a good portion of a day to complete the tour.

 

[Clemke32]

So for Yellowstone my wife and I went there during our PCS move across country we decided to stay in Cody, which ended up being a great... they had a nightly rodeo and plenty of things to do in town, close to a massive lake and close to Yellowstone as well... all in all I’d do that one again

 

[tpmcg]

That’d be my luck. 640,000 years and it’d happen while I’m on top of it.

dont feel bad. we'll all be toast.

 

[tpmcg]

driving back thru the middle of wyoming is very unique, too. coming out of the tetons heading se its essentially desert.

 

[newAD]

driving back thru the middle of wyoming is very unique, too. coming out of the tetons heading se its essentially desert.

Yea I've done that drive recently for the first time. I thought it was going to be so beautiful, but got past Laramie and, well, you know.